Get Fresh - Soft and Sassy Goat's Milk Cheeses Are Back
By Lassa Skinner
Springtime means renewal. Sunlight strengthens and lengthens, vegetation responds with robust new growth, and the natural course of life restarts its captivating cycle. This season of vitality is especially apparent in goat's milk cheeses, which show off the densest, richest milk of the year, full of nutrients for the newborn kids. The same abundance is true, of course, for other milking animals, but as inspiration for a spring cheese board, nothing compares to fresh goat's milk cheeses. Versatile and varied, they are made in a myriad of shapes and sizes with an assortment of coatings, rinds, and wrappings including ash, leaves, herbs, and flowers.
Goat's milk cheeses range from simple rounds to cones, square pillows, tiny disks, and gnarly palm-sized cylinders, all of which age differently and contribute unique qualities to an irresistible cheese plate. The heart of French goat's milk cheese production is the Loire Valley, and many of the cheeses featured here are from the province of Berry, through which the Loire River runs. But domestically, you might be surprised how close you are to a local chèvre maker. Ask your cheesemonger for suggestions about goat's milk producers in your area and inquire about fresh cheeses that are available.
For accompaniments on the cheese plate, go for complements in taste, texture, and aesthetics. A drizzle of honey can balance the cheese's natural acidity, homemade jam lends color and fruitiness, sliced salami adds spice, and oil-cured olives supply the salt and meatiness missing in young cheeses. Those who like a little flourish may adorn the plated cheese with edible flowers and dried herbs˜their color and scent capture the best of spring.
To enjoy a foolproof wine pairing with spring's fresh dairy flavors, try sipping a lean, clean Sauvignon Blanc. Or you might choose to be daring, like our wine columnist, Tara Q. Thomas, who goes for a Cabernet Franc (see the Spring 2009 issue of Culture for specific recommendations). Either way, you'll find these cheeses of the season are worthy of a toast.
Rondo
A small soft-ripened disk with a thin edible rind, decorated with herbs and red peppercorns. Made with a mix of pasteurized goat- and cow's milk.
Andante Dairy, Petaluma, California
www.andantedairy.com
Caprino Blu di Riforano
A soft, fresh blend of goat- and cow's milk cheese, wrapped inside chestnut leaves, which impart a light, woodsy flavor.
Agricola La Bottera, Piedmont, Italy
Bijou
Meaning "jewel" in French, this creamy little 2-ounce button is an American version of the French crottin, made from pasteurized goat's milk.
Vermont Butter and Cheese Company, Websterville, Vermont
www.vtbutterandcheeseco.com
Tronchetto al Miele
This raw goat's milk log has a small amount of honey added for an incredibly rich flavor that is unexpected but pleasing.
Aged and distributed by La Casera, Piedmont, Italy
Cabecou Picadine
A tender, dense disc made from pasteurized goat's milk with a nutty flavor and a slightly peppery finish.
Loire Valley, France
Picolo
Since not everyone likes goat's milk, this soft-ripened cylinder, made with pasteurized Jersey cow's milk and crème fraîche, offers a fresh alternative.
Andante Dairy, Petaluma, California
www.andantedairy.com
Tradition du Berry
A small, pyramid-shaped cheese made from pasteurized goat's milk and coated with charcoal ash; its flavor is mellow, with a slight tang.
Fromagerie Jacquin et Fils, Loire Valley, France
Carre du Berry
This soft wedge is stunning unadorned, but also try covering it with herbs and juniper berries (as it is here), to subtly flavor the pasteurized, goaty cheese underneath.
Loire Valley, France
Accompaniments:
FLOWERS
Dried or fresh rose petals, lavender, and chamomile are cheese-friendly garnishes.
HONEY
Artisanal, raw Washington Buckwheat Honey by Bee Raw Honey is deep, dark, and full-flavored with a slightly bitter note that complements any creamy, soft cheese.
www.bee-raw.com
SALAMI
Rosette de Lyon by Fabrique Delices, an all-natural (casing and meat) dry pork salami with a slightly peppery flavor and soft, moist texture.
"a href="http://www.fabriquedelices.com" target="_blank">www.fabriquedelices.com
WINE
Lambert Bridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California. Crisp and lively, with green apple, lime and tropical fruits on the palate.
www.lambertbridge.com
OLIVES
Castelvetrano (from Sicily) and Picholine (from France) lend a bright, briny flavor.
