Written by Brandon Weeks

All right, I admit it—I have a favorite bacteria: Lactobacillus, the genus that is largely responsible for the miracle of cheese. And, as if cheese isn’t reason enough to appreciate this hardworking bacteria, Lactobacillus is also used to cure and preserve some of my favorite meat products.

As the dominant bacterial strain in most cheese cultures, invisible lactobacilli convert lactose into lactic acid, keeping the growth of harmful bacteria in check while enabling rennet to work its magic coagulating the curds. As with cheese, the fat and protein of cured meat are broken down into exponentially more flavorful tidbits by the same action. It’s no wonder that cheese and charcuterie complement each other so well.

To create a first-rate cheese and meat plate, arrange your selections so the flavors run from mildest to strongest. We’ve done the work for you below, listing cheeses and meats in order of increasing piquancy. As for accompaniments, there are no hard-and-fast rules, with the exception of the robust Blu del Moncenisio, which is best served with condiments on the sweeter side. Even if you eschew other side servings, bread or crackers is key; a loaf of hearty oat or rye, or a sturdy, stone-ground wheat cracker stands up to the weight, fat content, and texture of the charcuterie. Add wedges of apple or pear, some dried fruit, nuts, and mostarda or chutney for a dramatic first course; for a light supper, try pickled vegetables or cornichons, olives, and grainy mustard. Serve with a medium-bodied pinot noir, nutty ale, or Hefeweizen, and you’ll be set to enjoy winter in good taste.

THE CHEESES
Tumalo Farms Classico
Pasteurized goat’s milk
Origin: Bend, Oregon
Tumalo Farms has created a veritable smorgasbord of Gouda-style goat’s milk cheeses from its Saanen and French Alpine does. Piquant, but without the tang of younger chèvres, Classico could very well become a fixture on many cheese platters. www.tumalofarms.com

Blu del Moncenisio
Raw cow’s milk
Origin: Moncenisio Pass, Piedmont, Italy
Dense, intense, and moist, with a faint but inoffensive hint of the barn. Moderately veined and sublime when paired with a sturdy salumi plus spicy or savory preserves and toasted nuts. Consider this your go-to festive party
cheese. www.artisanalcheese.com

Ossau-Iraty
Raw or pasteurized sheep’s milk
Origin: Basque Country, France
The often-imitated Ossau-Iraty stands as a benchmark for the sweet simplicity of hard mountain sheep’s milk cheese, redolent of nuts toasting in butter. It also works well in cooking; with leftovers, try melting it between grilled bread or grating it over a salad. www.murrayscheese.com

Robiola
Raw or pasteurized mixed milk (cow’s and sheep’s or goat’s milk)
Origin: Piedmont and Lombardy, Italy
From northern Italy’s prime dairying regions, this soft, bloomy cheese is traditionally aged for fewer than two weeks. Imported Robiola has a slightly longer affinage (maturing time) but still possesses a creamy, smooth interior, full mouthfeel, and faintly sour tang. Imported brands available in the U.S. include Robiola delle Langhe and Robiola Bosina. Imports are sometimes blended with butterfat-rich sheep’s milk for luxurious richness. www.dibruno.com

Morbier
Raw or pasteurized cow’s milk
Origin: Jura Mountains, France
The slightly funky aroma of this distinctive cheese belies its mild nature. Historically it’s made by topping a layer of fresh curd from the morning’s milk with soot, which was used as a preservative to prevent souring before the evening milk could be added to form the top layer; modern production methods use vegetable ash and do not distinguish between a.m. and p.m. milk. Morbier is a distinctive wedge on any cheese plate. As for flavor, expect a fruity essence followed by a pronounced nutty finish. www.cowgirlcreamery.com

THE CHARCUTERIE
Cured Beef Tongue
For the slightly more adventurous, beef tongue has a simple, lean flavor with a dense, meaty chew. Worth sinking your teeth into, this meat is a house special created by the artisans of Formaggio kitchen in Boston. www.formaggiokitchen.com

Serrano Ham
The quintessential Spanish cured ham — less fatty than Italian prosciutto and less salty than the smoked Virginia variety, serrano, or “mountain,” ham is served unadorned. Its innate goodness and complexity, achieved only through careful maturation, shouldn’t be masked. www.igourmet.com

Salami Barolo
A traditional red-wine salami by U.S.-based Cristiano Creminelli. The Italian charcutier upholds passionate traditions to create this diverse line of cured artisan meats and sausages. www.creminelli.com