Taste Travel
• Formaggio al Tartufo
• Pecorino Toscano Fresco
• Taula
• Panforte Margherita
Mention Tuscany and even the least romantic among us can hardly refrain from conjuring up images of wandering through ancient hill towns, gazing at medieval frescoes, or sipping a bottle of Vin Santo in the local piazza.
This achingly beautiful region of Italy also seduces by offering some of the world’s best wines and food, not the least of which is the local cheese. Sampling these specialties in situ is ideal, of course. But for those who are unable to spend the summer re-creating the Tuscan sojourn of Lucy Honeychurch in E. M. Forster’s Room with a View, there is some consolation: we can bring a little Tuscany to you, in the shape of three wonderful sheep’s milk cheeses of the Italian region, paired with a most delicious Sienese panforte. Take a few bites, close your eyes, and just imagine.
Formaggio al Tartufo
Caseificio Bertagni
Tuscany, Italy
Pasteurized sheep’s milk
Animal rennet
This medium-aged sheep’s milk cheese, studded with pieces of black truffle, is made by the father-and-son team of Bruno and Verano Bertagni at Caseificio Bertagni in northern Tuscany.
Milk comes from the rare breeds of Massese and Garfagnina sheep and is sourced from 17 small farms located high in the mountains between northern Tuscany (Toscana) and Emilia Romagna.
The inspiration for Formaggio al Tartufo came from a desire to create a cheese made with black truffles that could be used not only as a table cheese but also as a flavorful ingredient in dishes such as pasta and polenta.
Formaggio al Tartufo is quite small, weighing in at about one pound. The exterior rind is thin and slightly waxy with a pale yellow color. The interior ivory-white paste is semisoft and supple, studded with flecks of black truffle. Flavors are delicate and mild. The richness of the sheep’s milk enhances the flavors of truffle, but both are kept in balance, complementing each other. Aromas are of earth, hay, and truffle.
caseificiobertagni.com
Panforte Margherita
Similar to a small cake, panforte is made from almonds, spices, and candied fruit, dusted with confectioners’ sugar, and presented in hand-wrapped packaging. This panforte produced by Tuscan Pasticcerie Nannini in Monteriggioni is a wonderful companion to sheep’s milk cheeses. The deep, rich flavors of the nuts and fruit, together with its dense texture, balance the sweet, lactic characteristics of the milk.
guidonannini.it
Pecorino Toscano Fresco
Società Cooperativa Val d’Orcia
Società Agricola
Tuscany, Italy
Pasteurized sheep’s milk
Animal rennet
This version of pecorino, made from pasteurized milk in the town of Contignano, is meant to be consumed at a young age, preferably between 30 and 60 days. Hence the name “Fresco,” which means “fresh” in Italian.
Since Pecorino Toscano has DOP (name-protected) status, the rules surrounding production are strict. Consequently, milk must be sourced from the regions of Tuscany, Umbria, and Lazio to qualify.
The cheese is produced by Società Cooperativa Val d’Orcia Società Agricola, a cooperative comprised of dairy sheep farmers who not only supply the milk but also own the creamery where the cheesemaking takes place.
Because of its brief aging, Pecorino Fresco shows virtually no distinction between the rind and the interior of the cheese. The interior is a pale cream color, while the texture is smooth, dense, and pliable. This is designed to be an approachable cheese, perfect as a companion to other cheeses or accompaniments. Flavors are rich, sweet, and mild, balanced by a slight tang. There are hints of almonds, lanolin, and grass, with a graceful finish.
caseificiovaldorcia.com
Taula
Caseificio Bertagni
Tuscany, Italy
Pasteurized sheep’s milk
Animal rennet
Also made by Caseificio Bertagni and using the same milk source, Taula is made in the style of a Pecorino and aged for three months. It is one of the most traditional cheeses of Alta Garfagnana, the highest part of the Toscana region. In the local dialect taula is a wooden table specifically made for cheese maturing.
Upon arrival at the creamery, the milk is pasteurized and starter cultures added. The next steps of production follow a very old recipe. After coagulation the curd is cut first with a special cheese harp (cutter) known as a chitarra, then further broken down into very small pieces with a special implement called a spino, the same instrument used in the production of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which looks like a giant balloon whisk on the end of a pole. After pressing, the cheeses are taken out of their molds and transferred to maturing rooms, where they’re kept for a minimum of 60 days before release.
The texture of Taula is very firm and pleasantly waxy. The exterior rind is a dark beige color, with the interior slightly lighter. Flavors are very rich, earthy, and balanced, with notes of hay, caramel, and nuts.
caseificiobertagni.com
Photo: Gregory Cherin
