Quantcast

Spring 2010

Azores Flores

Azores Flores

The timeless charm of the tropical Azores, an archipelago off the coast of Portugal, is captured in Azores Flores, a new cheese produced on Flores Island, one of the region’s smallest and easternmost locales. The islands were an ancient port for trade ships traveling between Europe, India, and America, and their dairies have long been known for the quality of their cheesemaking. This light-bodied, creamy pasteurized cow’s milk cheese is named for the abundance of flowers and fauna covering Flores Island. Crafted in 18-pound wheels and aged 90 days, it has a well-balanced flavor and clean finish.
http://www.atalantacorporation.com

Outlaws and Inmates; Tales of Good Cheese Gone Bad

Cheese might seem like a wholesome business on the surface, but here at culture we’re not afraid to peel back the wax and give you a taste of the gamier side:

Dec. 7, 2005,
Memphis, TN (AP):
Jessica Sandy Booth, 18, was arrested over the weekend and charged with four counts of attempted murder and four counts of soliciting a murder . . . According to police, Booth was in the intended victims’ home last week when she mistook a block of queso fresco for cocaine, inspiring the idea to hire someone to break into the home, take the drugs, and kill the men . . . “Four men were going to lose their lives over some cheese,” said Lt. Jeff Clark.

She reportedly needed the money to pay a modeling agency fee.

That story is merely a case of mistaken identity, but as both a luxury item and a fungible commodity, the real thing attracts its share of fraudsters, mobsters, and thieves.

Art of the Rind by Wil Edwards

Photographer Wil Edwards discovers modern art in some cheese rinds you may know.

Notes in order of appearance:

Vella Dry Jack Special Select - Firm pasteurized cow's milk cheese with a cocoa rind; tastes of butterscotch, grass, earth. Aged 1 year. (Sonoma, California)

Devil's Gulch - Pasteurized, organic Jersey cow's milk cheese with sweet & spicy red pepper flakes balanced by rich, buttery flavors. Aged 4 weeks. (Petaluma, California)

Saint Maure de Touraine - Coated in charcoal, a pasteurized goat's milk cheese with fresh cream flavors and hints of dried mushroom. Aged 2-3 weeks. (Loire Valley, France)

Langres - Soft cow's milk cheese with brine and marc de champagne. Moist and aromatic. Tastes of cream, almonds, and straw. Aged 4-5 weeks. (Champagne-Ardennes, France)

Mimolette Vielle - Hard raw cow's milk cheese, deep orange-colored interior. Rich flavors of caramel, bacon, and toasted nuts. Aged 2 years. (Nord-Pas-de-Calais, France)

Vella Dry Jack Special Select, Sonoma California (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Devil's Gulch, Petaluma, CA (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Saint Maure de Touraine, Loire Valley, France (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Langres, Champagne-Ardennes, France (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Mimolette Vielle, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, France (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Petite Basque (or P'tit Basque), French Pyrenees (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Monte Enebro, Avila, Spain (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Manchego Viejo, Castile-La-Mancha, Spain (Photo by Wil Edwards)
 Pecorino Moliterno al Tartufo, Sardinia, Italy (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Dallenwiler Wychas, Oswalden, Switzerland (Photo by Wil Edwards)
Tomme de Savoie, Savoie South Eastern France (Photo by Wil Edwards)

Taleggio Risotto with Earthy Flavors

Each step of this three-part recipe serves to enhance and intensify the deep, sweet flavors of the final dish.


• 1lb Brussels sprouts, blanched, shocked, ends trimmed, and sprouts quartered lengthwise
• 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt to taste

Brussels Sprouts

In a pot of nicely salted boiling water, blanch the sprouts until just tender and shock immediately in an ice water bath. When chilled completely, drain the sprouts well and trim just the very end of the stem ends, discarding any ugly outer leaves that might fall off. Quarter the sprouts lengthwise and in a sauté pan set over high heat, add the oil. When the oil is just about smoking, add the Brussels sprouts and caramelize them nicely. Season them to taste with salt and set aside to cool.

Recipe Category: 
Main Dishes

Ask the Cheesemonger

Q: My cheese has gone moldy. Is there some kind of CPR I can perform on it or should I throw it away?

A: Not to worry, there’s no need to get out the defibrillator paddles just yet. Mold growing on cheese is a perfectly natural occurrence. The moisture content and pH that allow good molds to grow can enable the less desirable ones as well, but more often than not that freaky-looking fluff is actually hiding lovely, still-enjoyable cheese. So yes, there are several cheese CPR techniques that you can and should employ before you consider throwing it away. If the mold growth is small and shallow, use a cheese slicer or plane to shave off the mold and the area around it.

Goat’s Milk Ricotta and Fresh Herb Ravioli with Parmigiano-Reggiano Broth and Edible Blossoms

Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds are chock-full of flavor. Here, they simmer in broth to intensify the flavor of this fresh ravioli dish. So save your rinds or source some from your favorite cheese shop. If goat’s milk ricotta isn’t available, any fine ricotta is a good replacement.

SERVES 6 TO 8

1 quart vegetable broth or stock
1/4 pound Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds
Kosher or sea salt, to taste
3/4 pound extra-fine durum flour (semolina)
1/4 pound 00 flour (an Italian specialty variety; ask your fine food retailer)
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup cold water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup finely diced shallots
1/2 cup sweet vermouth
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 tablespoons finely chopped
fresh French savory
6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
2 pounds goat’s milk ricotta (or high-quality cow’s milk ricotta)
Fresh edible herb or flower blossoms for garnish (optional)

Recipe Category: 
Main Dishes

Crispy Cheese Croquettes

Chef Kreisel recommends serving these with a side salad of curly endive or frisée dressed with tarragon vinegar.

SERVES 10, AS AN APPETIZER

2 pounds dense, flavorful cheddar (Kreisel uses Beehive Cheese Company Promontory Apple-Walnut Smoked Cheddar)
5 large eggs
2 tablespoons cold water
4 cups panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
3 cups semolina (Italian pasta flour) or Asian rice flour
2 quarts canola oil, blended olive oil, or peanut oil, for frying

Slice
the cheese into bricks about 3 inches long, 1½ inches wide, and ½ inch thick. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and cold water. Place the egg mixture, panko, and flour in separate shallow containers (you should be able to fit a couple pieces of cheese at a time in each container).

Working

Recipe Category: 
Starters

Arugula and Escarole Salad with Sweet Feta and Green Onion Dressing

Try this feta dressing as a sauce for roasted veggies or even slathered on your favorite grilled meat. And as a sauce, it’s glorious paired with hot, sizzling frites.

SERVES 6

2 tablespoons plus 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
1 cup seasoned rice vinegar
2 cups crumbled feta
3 tablespoons dark molasses
1 tablespoon clover honey
1 bunch parsley, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons toasted fennel seed, ground
½ cup queso fresco (available at Mexican markets)
2 bunches scallions, sliced in thin rounds (greens only)
1 head escarole, cleaned, leaves separated and torn into pieces
2 large handfuls arugula leaves, washed and dried

Recipe Category: 
Salads

Crostata with Robiola, Fig Compote, and Rosemary Chantilly

This not-too-sweet rustic dessert tart features a filling of fig preserves and Robiola, a mixed-milk cheese from northern Italy with a rich, triple-cream-like texture. If unavailable, substitute Brie, Crescenza, or Perail.

SERVES 6
1½ cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
½ tablespoon grated lemon zest
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons ice water, plus more as needed
Flour for dusting
2 well-chilled pieces (8 ounces each) Robiola cheese, cut into ½-inch-wide strips
3 cups homemade fig compote or store-bought fig jam
2 cups heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
Toasted pine nuts (optional)
Recipe Category: 
Desserts and Sweets