Add water and sugar to a medium bowl and stir to dissolve sugar. Stir in yeast and let sit 10 minutes, or until yeast has dissolved and water is foamy. Add milk and yogurt and stir to combine.

Whisk flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture. Mix gently with a wooden spoon or your hands until sticky dough forms. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead gently for 1 to 2 minutes.

Shape dough into a ball, rinse and dry bowl, and place dough inside. Cover bowl with a damp towel and place in a warm, nondrafty spot (the inside of a cold oven works well) to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Once dough rises, it’s ready for grilling.