The Goulds of Portland, Maine's Central Provisions
serve this sauce with a housemade rye cavatelli, but regular cavatelli or rigatoni will do. According to Chris Gould, the agrumato lemon oil—created by milling lemons and olives together—adds brightness tempered with a bit of fat. “It’s more of a round flavor than a sharp flavor,” he says. The ragu can be made up to a week ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to use.