It’s a real show when Jimmy Shaw makes chicharrones behind the sleek counter at Loteria Grill. A blizzard of shredded Mexican manchego hits the hot griddle, then a pinch of cilantro, a sprinkle of onion, and seconds later you’re handed a fantastically lacy, golden crisp. Alas, you are not Jimmy Shaw, so here’s how to do it at home: make several smaller, less dramatic chicharrones instead of one huge one. Use a slightly lower temperature. And think of them like pancakes—the first will be ugly but good, and they’ll keep getting better.
* Mexican manchego is not to be confused with Spanish manchego. The latter is a firm, aged sheep’s milk cheese, whereas Mexican manchego is made from cow’s milk and is softer and milder.
DO-AHEAD: Chicharrones are best served promptly, but they may be prepared a few hours ahead and stored, covered, in a dry place.