A cocoa rind A man holds his cheese before a classical column Title card showing Ugandan money and stamps A cheesemaker pulls a big fold of mozzarella A weathered wooden sign displaying the name of the operation Guffanti Formaggi's cheese master smiles genially in a close up Bob Wills of Cedar Grove helps Willi Lehner of Bleu Mont Dairy of Blue Mounds, Wis., turn wheels of Driftless Select Earth Schmier, made at Cedar Grove and aging here in Bleu Mont Dairy’s underground cave.

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