Fourth-generation dairy farmer Jean Morin has found remarkable success as a first-generation cheese producer. What’s his secret? “Happy, healthy cows,” Morin says. “It all starts with the milk, and the care we show the cheese as we make it.”
Morin’s brother, Dominic, manages the herd of mainly Holsteins and Swiss Brown cows. Sons and a daughter represent the fifth generation already at work on the organic dairy farm, La Ferme Louis d’Or, and—across the street in the village of Sainte-Élizabeth de Warwick—at La Fromagerie du Presbytère. The farmstead cheese business takes its name from the rectory (presbytère, in French), which the Morins acquired in 2005 from the Roman Catholic church next door. Cheesemaking started in 2007. Four years later, Louis d'Or swept the Canadian Cheese Grand Prix, winning three categories and the coveted title of Grand Champion. In 2014, it won Best Quebec Cheese and Best Firm Cheese with Holes at the Canadian Cheese Awards.
90-plus-pound wheels of Louis d'Or boast an orange-tan washed rind embossed with their name. (Louis was the second-generation Morin to run the farm; he added "d'Or" as a nod to the 17th-century King of France). The raw milk cheese is aged for nine months.
Inside is a butter-yellow paste with a slight crumble and scattered small crystals. Deep aromas of nuts and fruit characterize the velvety, buttery-textured paste, and complex flavors melt on the tongue.
Enhance the complex flavors of Louis d’Or with lightly wooded chardonnay or a lighter Côtes du Rhône.