If whiskey and cheese locked eyes at a bar, it’s hard to say if they would hit it off right away. Whiskey is a powerhouse regardless of the distillate, blend, age, or origin. Its high ABV level (which hovers around 40 percent as opposed to wine’s approximately 14 percent) can wash away the taste of more delicate wedges, while its robust character demands the sipper’s full attention. Proper pairings are less obvious and less abundant, but when done right, awaken the senses, leaning on terroir to coax out the qualities that spark a cozy conversation extending into the wee hours and brushing elbows on neighboring stools.
“Whiskey, bourbon, and rye all reflect the grains with which they’re created and the land from which
these grains grow,” says Ivy Ronquillo, owner of Second Mouse Cheese Shop in Pleasantville, New York, which focuses on American artisanal producers. “Terroir is everywhere and in everything. Rye from the Great Plains is going to taste different than the same grain from Poland, and a corn-based bourbon is a different beast than a malted barley-based Scotch.” A region’s high heat or humidity might cause condensation that waters down the resulting spirit, and a recipe from one area could produce a bottle that’s entirely different when distilled in the climate of another. To identify whiskey’s origin and tasting notes that complement cheese, start with your nose. Aromas of mango and juicy tropical fruits can emerge from Indian whisky and a hint of briny kelp could surface from Scotch.
“Drinks that lean tropical often work well with young cheeses, especially those made from goat’s milk; we are going for refreshment,” Ronquillo says. “Pronounced vanilla, caramel, or peppery notes are applicable across a wide array of options, from earthy brie to yeasty washed rinds to nutty Alpines,” she says. “ And smokey or peaty whiskies need a cheese that’s just as weighty.”
When crafting pairings, factor in the flavors from the barrels. “Pay close attention to the barrels in which this eau de vie ages, as well as how long it hangs around those oak chambers,” says Ronquillo, who also notes that whiskeys heavily flavored by repurposed barrels are tougher to pair. “Barrels play a huge role in flavor, for better or worse, and are often further examples of customs gone global. I love that our Japanese whisky harkens to Spain. Or that an Israeli whisky, like Milk & Honey Distillery, can be reminiscent of pomegranate wine.”
Whiskey requires “a slow sip and a mature approach to pairing.” Stick to the selection from Ronquillo on the next page to ensure the only thing on the rocks is your whiskey.
SĀCH TURMERIC TWIST ORGANIC PANEER + PAUL JOHN NIRVANA SINGLE MALT INDIAN WHISKY
This paneer’s lightly aromatic notes of turmeric, black pepper, and a hint of ginger cut through the sweetness of this whiskey. The spirit has a soft, honeyed finish with a dash of caramel and fruitcake. A dollop of Brooklyn Delhi Mango Chutney ties the two together with a lightly spicy kick from chili and ginger.
DEHESA DE LOS LLANOS GRAN RESERVA MANCHEGO + HAKATA 10-YEAR SHERRY CASK JAPANESE WHISKY
“One of my favorite pairings is a Japanese whisky, Hakata, that’s aged in Sherry barrels. The 10-year variety is subtle, aromatic, and versatile,” Ronquillo says. “We pair it with Dehesa de los Llanos Gran Reserva Manchego and Ines Rosales Orange Sweet Olive Oil Tortas for one of the most unexpected and, frankly, perfect combinations.” The sharp cheese breaks up the light, sweet spirit, while its nuttiness plays well with the tipple’s raisin undertones.
REDHEAD CREAMERY NORTH FORK WHISKEY WASHED MUNSTER + MICHTER’S US-1 SINGLE BARREL STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY
Ronquillo describes this cheese as “ridiculously delicious and savory- sweet.” She says: “We put a dollop of that cloth-wrapped puck on Potter’s Caramelized Onion Crackers and pair it with Michter’s US-1 Straight Single Barrel Rye Whiskey. I could enjoy that combo every day of my life if my liver would ever allow it.” The spirit’s rich cinnamon-spice notes also might work well in a Manhattan.
HIGH LAWN FARM BLUE + TACONIC DISTILLERY DOUBLE BARREL MAPLE BOURBON
Made from Jersey cow’s milk, this smearable blue captures the essence of a fresh and dewy pasture that contrasts with this treacly whiskey. The spirit is aged in former maple syrup barrels, so expect a rich, lingering sweetness. Drizzle Sugar Bob’s Finest Kind Vermont Maple Syrup over the cheese to gild the lily.
