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Cheesemonger Steve Ehlers took inventory for Larry’s Market in Milwaukee, Wis., at age 6 and checked out customers when he was 10. He fell in love with Normandy, France, in the early 1970s and has quietly built the specialty food side of this business ever since. He is now co-owner with sister Patty— though the store remains a true family endeavor, with siblings in management roles and Steve’s 90-year-old father Larry arriving daily to sell cheese.