The name of this column is “Drinks with Cheese,” and we’re taking that moniker a little more literally this time around. As in: pairing curds with cocktails that are shaken or stirred with a cheese element, whether that be a Parmigiano Reggiano rind infusion or including a slackened mascarpone to mimic the flavor of cheesecake with a bit of extra funk. Given the recent martini boom, it’s no surprise that imbibers are open to sips with savory backbones that lean briny, unctuous, or punchy, especially in contrast to sweeter and fresher drinks, like those of the tiki revival and the spritzification of everything.
Some of these cocktails aim to distill taste profiles from fully formed dishes (like a caprese salad), while others rely on a fat-wash technique (in which fats or oils are infused into a spirit by chilling the mixture and straining off the risen fat) to impart flavor and a velvety mouthfeel. According to Mary Chapman, who co-owns Sissle & Daughters Cheesemongers & Grocers in Portland, Maine, with her husband, Will Sissle, mouthfeel is the defining characteristic when it comes to pairing drinks that combine booze and bloom with a cheese counterpart.
“Flavors, acidity, etcetera can all be great, but if the texture is sandy or the cheese melts away from your palate too soon, the rest doesn’t matter,” says Chapman, who notes that whiskey- or bourbon-based tipples harmonize especially well. When creating her slate of pairings, Chapman focused on what the cheese brings to the cocktail, whether that’s body, texture, or balance. See her cheesy cocktails and pairings below that have curds in spades—or shall we say sips.
Manchego 1605 + Tutto Fumo from Bar Sprezzatura
This cocktail from bicoastal Bar Sprezzatura builds from an Espadín mezcal that’s infused for 24 hours with premium Parmigiano Reggiano di Vacca Bianca Modenese, which is made from the milk of Italian heritage breed cows. The Parm lends nuttiness, apricot and honey bring sweetness, and lemon and Calabrian chile add acidity and heat before it’s all shaken with frothy egg white. “There are tricky parts during the process, 10 minutes more or 10 minutes less are crucial,” says partner and mixologist Carlo Splendorini. Manchego 1605, which is uniquely handmade with raw sheep’s milk from a single herd and aged in Ciudad Real, Spain, leans into the cocktail’s nutty freshness with notes of caramelized almond and hay.
Haymay Creamery Frolic + Cheesecake Cocktail from The Patterson House
Using mascarpone as an “alternate emulsifier,” this little libation has a base of Liba Spirits Lafcadio Botanical Rum, which is infused with bay leaf and other herbs; Faretti Biscotti Liqueur, which emulates the graham cracker crust; and El Dorado 12 Year, a demerara rum heavy with coconut, coffee, and cacao notes. “Mascarpone is a great way to add body, texture, and just a bit of funk,” says Alex McCutchen, beverage director at the Nashville, Tennessee, restaurant. “To allow easier emulsification, the cheese is slacked out with just a bit of heavy cream,” he says. “These kinds of soft cheeses work best in cocktails because of their malleable textures.” Lyle’s Golden Syrup amplifies the drink’s butterscotch-y base, lime and absinthe add brightness, Angostura bitters and falernum bring a touch of pie spice, and egg whites add balance. Chapman pairs this tipple with one of her favorites: Frolic, a mild bloomy-rind cheese that keeps things soft and creamy. She also recommends adding a smear of fig-forward BRINS Forbidden Fruit spread.
Parmigiano Reggiano Cravero San Pietro + Caprese My Name from Giusto
Inspired by a classic Caprese salad, this vodka-based cocktail tastes as bright as an Italian summer, made with a tomato and white balsamic mixture, lemon, and fresh basil syrup, garnished with fresh basil and mozzarella ciliegine (cherry-size mozz balls). “We landed on pasta stock to lend the cocktail a silky, creamy mouthfeel that’s akin to biting into a slice of good, fresh mozzarella,” says Nate Hayden, beverage director at the Newport, Rhode Island, restaurant. Chapman recommends Parmigiano Reggiano San Pietro, which is peppered with tyrosine crystals, to lean into the silky sip. Give it a little contrast with tender Aldo Armato semi-dried cherry tomatoes.
Fromagerie Beillevaire Raclette de Montagne Braisée + Cobalt & Cocoa from Dearly Beloved
According to Chapman, this raclette isn’t just for melting; it doubles as a delicious snacking cheese. The wheel’s versatility plays well with the decadent cocktail’s smoky minerality. “The smokiness is just present enough to complement the mezcal while still allowing the high-quality raw-milk cheese to shine through,” says Chapman. Cobalt & Cocoa from Chicago’s Dearly Beloved is crafted from vodka, blue cheese, milk chocolate, almond orgeat, and La Higuera sotol, which lends rich caramel notes with layers of smoked grass and cedar.
