Field of Creams
What’s the secret to delicious goat’s milk cheese? Keeping goats happy, according to Prodigal Farm’s owners Dave Krabbe and Kathryn Spann. The Rougemont, N.C.-based farmstead dairy prides itself on being a place “where goats can be goats”; does are pasture-raised and moved to fresh patches of grass every few days. Krabbe and Spann follow the herd with a portable shelter (sometimes a school bus) in case any goats need some R&R during daily excursions. And the does love to be brought to the edge of the woods to “browse” the vines and pines, an interest that Krabbe and Spann are happy to indulge.
This farmstead cheese is the fruit of all that careful pampering. Made in a French bloomy-rind style, the discs are rubbed with a mix of herbs and spices before being allowed to develop a fuzzy white rind. The herb and spice mix—rosemary, juniper berries, fennel, thyme, tellicherry pepper, red pepper flakes— is an instant transport to the breezy hillsides of Provençal France.
While the rind is wrinkly and fuzzy, the herbs poking through that bloomy mold hint at the aromatic experience to follow. Paste is bone-white, bright and creamy-looking, while aromas upfront are of freshly mown grass, lavender and yogurt. Flavor is mild, grassy, herbal and bright, leaving enough room for the aromas of those herbs to shine through.
Owners Krabbe and Spann suggesting pairing Field of Creams with charcuterie. For beverages, try it with a Grüner Vetliner.