Cheesemongers share favorite pairings for summer and talk shop
HAN SCHMIDT
Caseus Diem, Portland, Oregon
Share with us how your shop emphasizes telling stories about cheese and creating a welcoming and inclusive space.
Engaging people in stories of how cheese is made and where it comes from, without the expectation of them purchasing anything, brings people closer to this artistry and the cheesemakers themselves. This creates a welcoming space where, hopefully, they will want to come back next time and learn, try something new every time they walk through the door—and if they have the funds available, make a purchase, which helps support my shop, employees, and community.
Bringing this to a personal level, I am queer, fat, and neurodivergent. Navigating the world is difficult enough for me. Why would I create a space that I wouldn’t want to be in for 40-plus hours a week? I have an accessible restroom, comfortable chairs, lots of color, and natural light, all of which makes my brain very happy. I hope I have created a space where those like me feel they can comfortably be themselves and enjoy some cheese.
Which pairings are perfect for summer?
Not to be basic, but rosé and brie or a crystallized cheddar are perfect picnic pairings. If wine isn’t your thing, let me introduce Big Jalm locally made jams. I love their award-winning Raspberry Scotch Bonnet Jam with Brillat-Savarin. Sitting by the river with these two on a baguette sounds like a perfect summer pairing to me.
What’s hot in the cheese world right now?
The one question I almost always get from a new customer is, “What is your most unusual cheese?” People want a unique experience. They want to be able to go to their friends and tell them about this amazing or weird cheese they just tried. I’m finding that the hot trend is really community, finding camaraderie in the small things, including cheese.

Celine Kimberly (right), co-owner of Winchester, Massachusetts’ Nouvelle Maison, and Liz Clarke (left), Nouvelle Maison’s cheese buyer and supervisor cheesemonger. Photo courtesy of Celine Kimberly.
CELINE KIMBERLY
Nouvelle Maison, Winchester, Massachusetts
What inspired you to bring French flair to your shop?
Both my mother and my grandmother were home economics teachers in France, and life in my childhood home really centered around the kitchen, making seasonal dishes. We would make jams in the summer and boeuf bourguignon in the winter. My grandmother kept an old recipe notebook that her mother had given her, and I now have it in our home.
With Nouvelle Maison, my husband, Tom, and I finally had the opportunity to bring together all our favorite products and ingredients and give the community a place in the town center where they can buy everything they need for a family meal.
We really wanted our store to feel authentically Parisian but also friendly and welcoming. I always loved going to the big food halls in Paris that look chic and modern, and I want someone to feel like they are there when they come to Nouvelle Maison. In fact, we installed the same cheese and charcuterie cases that are in La Grande Épicerie de Paris.
Which pairings are perfect for summer?
I love lighter, fresher cheeses, like burrata or fresh goat cheese. A Valençay paired with honey and a glass of white Sancerre screams summer to me.
What’s hot in the cheese world right now?
One of the most exciting shifts in the cheese industry today is the growing recognition of the cheesemonger as a true profession, not just a food retail job. As consumers become more curious about where their food comes from and how it’s made, there’s a rising appreciation for the deep knowledge and expertise that cheesemongers bring to the table. At the same time, there’s a demand for deeper storytelling—people don’t just want to know if a cheese is firm or creamy, they want to understand the history, terroir, and the people behind it. This means that today’s cheesemongers aren’t just selling cheese—they’re educating, pairing, and curating an experience.
From left to right: Jeremiah Smith, Maria Smith, Abby Day, and Nate Day of South Slope Cheese Co. in Asheville, North Carolina. Photo courtesy of Jeremiah Smith.
ABBY DAY, NATE DAY, MARIA SMITH, AND JEREMIAH SMITH
South Slope Cheese Company, Asheville, North Carolina
What is the best or most joyful thing about running a cheese shop?
This community. Each and every person who visits us regularly is unique and uniquely our friend. I mean, have you ever seen the face of a 4-year-old girl whose favorite place to go is your cheese shop? Or the neighborhood dog, Bodie, who calmly waits at the door on every walk for his cheese snack? This community is just the best, and we love each and every one of them.
Tell me more about what business has been like since Hurricane Helene. How has your community been affected? What was it like for your shop in the aftermath? What is it like today?
The storm made us all closer in some ways, but it has scarred us all for life. Locals have been able, somehow, to continue to show up and support small businesses. It’s just amazing. But Asheville is a tourism-driven economy, and a big part of getting back to normal will be seeing our visitors return in droves. The community is ready and excited to remind everyone why Asheville is so great.
The shop did have to close for a month, simply because Asheville’s water supply was not safe. We never lost power. However, not being able to open forced us to make some decisions on what to do with products that were not going to last. We donated a lot of cheese and meats to businesses that were providing meals for people in need.
As four individuals who grew up in the area, we’ve experienced many different feelings in the aftermath of the hurricane. Some of those include pride, love, and devotion. But not far behind it, we feel the devastation and remorse. Our hearts are tugged in so many different ways in an instant.
What’s hot in the cheese world right now?
The demand for high-quality vegan cheese is skyrocketing. Innovations in nut-based, soy-based, and even fermented plant cheeses are creating options that rival traditional dairy in flavor and texture. As more people explore plant-based diets, we’re excited to offer selections that cater to both vegans and curious cheese lovers alike.
Alana Pedalino
Alana Pedalino serves as Managing Editor of culture. Her work has been featured in Bon Appétit, Chicken Soup for the Soul, and more. She loves to write, cook, and kayak. Find her bylines at alanapedalino.com.


