Île Saint-Louis is one of two islands on the Seine, just east of Île de la Cité, famous for Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. Way back when, the former was mostly inhabited by cows and originally owned by Notre-Dame cathedral, but now, the quaint island is filled with boutique hotels, bistros, patisseries, and a new resident as of June 14, 2024: le Musée du Fromage. This museum of cheese is the brainchild of Pierre Brisson and run by the Paroles de Fromagers, a society of cheese and wine professionals dedicated to cheese education and preserving French heritage.
Though debated, France lays claim to creating between 300 and 1,000 types of cheeses, from Brie and Camembert to Tomme de Savoie and Valençay. Styles range from bloomy rind to washed rind to blue, and many contain the PDO and PGI seals, which guarantee product authenticity so you know you’re getting the real deal. The history of cheese production dates to 2500 B.C. in Mesopotamia, and pops up in Homer’s The Odyssey as the writer describes Cyclops straining curds in wicker baskets. Cut to France after the fall of Rome, and monks began to master recipes for Munster, Maroilles, and Pont- l’Évêque, which are still used today.
When crossing the Pont Saint-Louis bridge from Notre- Dame to Île Saint-Louis, you’ll find yourself humming “La Vie En Rose” and slowing your pace (I mean, it’s Paris, embrace it) as you escape the bustle of tourism just across the water. You may even pop in a brasserie for un verre de vin before you stumble upon an unassuming cheese shop along Rue Saint-Louis. Upon entering the museum, you’ll be greeted with a nearly wall-to-wall cheese case on the left, and a stone wall on your right that houses bric-a-brac and various cheese accompaniments, perfect for curating a dreamy Parisian picnic. For 20 euros (10 for kids), you can participate in a tasting and tour the history of French cheese.
Brisson tells Euronews, “People can see cheesemaking live and also talk to the cheesemaker, so that’s an important part of what we do. We are working with many traditional farmers, so we want people [to feel like they’re] kind of traveling when they taste the cheese. We are opening a little window in the heart of Paris to the rural side of France.”
The museum houses two conjoining rooms in addition to the shop space: the first is where tour guides describe various French cheeses and features a large wooden light- up map highlighting styles from each region. The second, larger space guides patrons through the history of French cheese, how it’s made, and the importance of terroir; it’s also used as a micro-dairy for making camembert-style cheese on site. There’s also a large interactive wall that allows guests to select a style of cheese and learn the specific process of how it’s made from farm to table, as well as a wall of plaques describing various Cheese Brotherhoods, or confréries, across the country. And of course, there’s the tasting. During my visit, our group sampled Valençay, Camembert, and Fourme de Montbrison, a mild cow’s milk blue from the Rhône-Alpes. The whole experience clocked in at about one hour (plus 30 minutes of perusing the shop and chit- chatting with other guests).
If you’re out and about for a day trip along the Siene, le Musée du Fromage is worth a stop. Pop in for the tour, and after, curate a perfectly Parisian cheese plate that’ll have you saying oh là là for the remainder of your trip.
Mallory Scyphers
Mallory Scyphers is culture's Executive Content Director and has been with the company since 2019. She lives on Mobile Bay with her husband, two young daughters, one old Shetland Sheepdog, one rambunctious golden retriever, and one calico cat. Her favorite cheeses are alpine styles and mineral-y blues.
