Best Cheeses 2019: Mixed Milk | culture: the word on cheese
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Best Cheeses 2019: Mixed Milk


Photographed by Nina Gallant; Styled by Erin Riley

BAMBOOZLE

GOAT RODEO FARM & DAIRY

ALLISON PARK, PENN.

Be careful with this one—sources say it’s insanely devourable. Semi-soft goat’s and cow’s milk cheese is washed with local Pennsylvania beers, supplied by the likes of Cinderlands Beer Co. in Pittsburgh, and aged for four months until smooth and funky. Best enjoyed with—what else—more beer.


SHEPSOG

GRAFTON VILLAGE CHEESE

GRAFTON, VT.

Available only in the fall and winter, Shepsog is the pride of Grafton Village Cheese. Named for the Algonquin word for “sheep,” this cow’s and sheep’s milk cheese harks back to the wool industry that supported Vermont in the 19th century, with a velvety gray rind reminiscent of a sheep’s woolly coat. The semi-firm paste offers distinct nutty flavors and a round, buttery-sweet finish.


PROFESSOR’S BRIE

OLD CHATHAM CREAMERY/WEGMANS FOOD MARKETS

ROCHESTER, N.Y.

This scholarly square of sheep’s milk and cow’s cream honors retired Cornell professor David Galton, now co-owner of Old Chatham Creamery. Galton makes this cheese—which won Second Place Best of Show at ACS 2019—for Wegmans, whose ACS-certified affineur Mathieu Callol shepherds it to perfection in the retailer’s caves. The velvet rind exudes earthy minerality and notes of pepper and grapefruit, while the rich interior makes clotted cream seem austere.


GOATLET

CONSIDER BARDWELL FARM/CROWN FINISH CAVES

WEST PAWLET, VT.

This 11-pound natural rind wheel is a collaboration between Consider Bardwell Farm and Crown Finish Caves in Brooklyn. It’s the dairy’s mixed-milk version of Pawlet (cow’s milk only), made with an 80/20blend of grass-fed cow’s milk and late season goat’s milk, aged four to six months. The result is a robust, semi-firm crowd pleaser with notes of grass, cream, and citrus.


 

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