Savor the end of fig season by piling the sweetest ones you can find atop a pizza with zippy goat’s milk feta, and creamy buffalo mozzarella.
Unfortunately, even in California, fig season doesn’t last forever, and the specimens I was picking up last week had already lost their figgy luster. The best way to use less-than-perfect figs is to cook them. Not only does this drive off some of their moisture, concentrating their flavor, but it also converts some of their more complex sugars to simple sugars that are sweeter than their precursors. Your figs become jammier and all around tastier.