Cheese shop owners and makers speak on their favorite cheese pairings this holiday season.
Julian Dell’Oso (left) of Amabel Provisions in Buffalo, New York.
JULIAN DELL’OSO
Amabel Provisions, Buffalo, New York
Why did you launch a cheese shop in Buffalo?
We love cheese, and Buffalo’s loss of Nickel City Cheese & Mercantile left a void we wanted to fill. Inspired by memories of our wedding cheese spread, we felt Western New York deserved better options. After years as a wine rep, I missed having access to quality cheese and decided to bring it to Buffalo. City licensing issues delayed our opening, and the limited availability of quality cheeses in our area poses challenges, especially with unreliable shipments and high shipping costs. Local limitations make it tough, but we’re determined to provide Buffalo with access to the best cheeses possible.
Why is opening a cheese shop totally worth it?
During our opening week, former employees of Nickel City Cheese visited as a group, sharing stories of their time there and their ongoing love for cheese. Their excitement about having a cheese shop in Buffalo again warmed our hearts. We’ve had many cheese enthusiasts, former cheesemongers, and fans of Nickel City Cheese come through our doors, all expressing love for what we’re doing. Conversations about our all-domestic lineup have been lively and well-received, reaffirming our belief that Buffalo will support a new cheese shop. We’re confident that with good cheese, they will come.
What is a cheese pairing you’re loving this season?
Sequatchie Cove Creamery Coppinger (or anything Morbier-style) with a caramelized onion accompaniment (maybe Potter’s Crackers Caramelized Onion Crisps) is fantastic with a little crispy prosciutto. Or Nettle Meadow Farm Kunik, warmed with cranberry compote and fresh thyme, atop Effie’s Homemade Walnut Biscuits.
Georgette Nelson of San Francisco’s Kitchen Table Travel & Large Marge Cheese Truck.
GEORGETTE NELSON
Kitchen Table Travel & Large Marge Cheese Truck, San Francisco, California
Why did you launch a cheese truck as opposed to a brick-and-mortar operation?
I’ve always loved food, especially cheese. After culinary school and working in kitchens, I became a cheese and specialty foods purchaser in the San Francisco Bay Area. In 2020, I created a small travel company that offered culinary tours in Italy, where food, history, and culture are deeply intertwined. Inspired by Sicily, I acquired a Piaggio Ape, naming it “Large Marge,” to bring the Italian culinary experience to others. This mobile shop allows me to create unique events, connect with the community, and share my passion for good food, all while enjoying the flexibility to balance it with my full-time job.
Tell me about a particular event where your cheese truck was a big hit?
To be perfectly honest, I get so much joy just driving Marge around. She is so cute and unique that most people take a second to wave, offer a thumbs-up, or flash a smile. My other great moment was probably my very first event. I had been out of the kitchen for so long and was really nervous about my first catering gig. But it was like riding a bicycle, and when my muscle memory kicked in, I had it all under control. It was a personal reminder that I can do this! I have so much support in this project, and I must remember that I’m the only one holding myself back.
What is a cheese pairing you’re loving this season?
Hot melted raclette with kimchi on steamed potatoes.
Blane Murray, owner of Muranda Cheese Company.
SAVANNAH TROMBLEY
Muranda Cheese Company, Waterloo, New York
Tell me about Muranda Cheese Company and the history of your operation.
Muranda started as a first-generation dairy farm in 1991, with Tom Murray milking 90 Holstein Friesian cows and winning the Dairy of Distinction Award for 25 years. The farm shifted focus after a prize heifer bred a cow that set a Guinness World Record for milk production in 1997, leading to a successful breeding operation. Tom’s cheesemaking hobby grew and gained in popularity alongside the Finger Lakes wine industry. Today, Tom’s son Blane, a Cornell University graduate, runs the farm and cheese operations, expanding their offerings and launching a successful online store that has extended their reach across the US.
Why do y’all love what you do?
We meet and connect with folks every day over cheese! Watching new wineries open in the Finger Lakes and partnering with them is also a real highlight. We feel so proud to be featured with these wineries, and to work alongside amazing winemakers and other local businesses in our area is a true treat. Teamwork makes the Finger Lakes work!
What is a cheese pairing you’re loving this season?
Muranda Blue paired with a heavy red! I’d go with Standing Stone Vineyard’s Farm Red—Finger Lakes of course. The creamy subtle blue flavor alongside the tannic bite of a red hits the spot.
Mallory Scyphers
Mallory Scyphers is culture's Executive Content Director and has been with the company since 2019. She lives on Mobile Bay with her husband, two young daughters, one old Shetland Sheepdog, one rambunctious golden retriever, and one calico cat. Her favorite cheeses are alpine styles and mineral-y blues.
