Local sheep’s milk cheese is at the heart of Sztrapacska, a potato-based meal.
Memorable travel moments are almost always inextricably linked to good food and drink. Even the simplest meal can be the stuff of travel stories—such as the humble Sztrapacska, a regional dish found primarily in Slovakia and Hungary.
My first taste of Sztrapacska was at a restaurant in the historic district of Pest after a long flight from Dallas to Budapest several years ago. Hungry, tired, and in search of comfort food, I wandered into a gorgeous café. Simple, filling, and delicious, the Sztrapacska hit the spot.
In December 2023, I found myself in Budapest again and wanted to revisit the restaurant (and the dish). Sadly, the restaurant was a victim of the pandemic and no longer open for table service. I’m nothing if not resourceful, and after doing some research for similar restaurants, I found Jardinette. Owner Zoltán Kálmán promised he could prepare the indelible dish.
A bit like gnocchi, Sztrapacska is made with potato noodles, eggs, and local sheep’s milk cheese. The noodles are made with a device that looks a lot like a cheese grater but with larger holes. Originally considered food for peasants or people requiring a hearty meal after hard physical labor, Sztrapacska can be topped with sour cream, chives, or bacon. In Hungary, it’s commonly served with pork knuckles and cabbage.
Local cheese is key. In Hungary, cheese is typically eaten fresh, and the sheep’s milk cheese used to make this dish is akin to cottage cheese or ricotta.
There’s some debate regarding exactly what this dish is called. The potato, cheese, and bacon version is more typical of Slovakia, but because the country borders Hungary, there is a natural blending and adaptation of cultures.
At Jardinette, l tasted two versions of Sztrapacska: the dish most similar to what I remembered from my first visit to Budapest (topped with bacon), and a layered version with pork knuckle. Although both were delicious, I preferred the simple yet perfect combination of potato noodles, cheese, and egg.
Jardinette is a family-owned restaurant with a history dating back 100 years. Located on the Buda side of the Danube River, it’s in a quiet neighborhood frequented by locals—tourists rarely venture past the monuments on Buda Castle Hill. If you go, order a local red wine with your Sztrapacska for a warm and satisfying combination on a cold winter day.
JARDINETTE RESTAURANT
Budapest, Németvölgyi út 136, 1112 Hungary
Penny Sadler
Penny Sadler is a travel, wine, and food writer based in Dallas, Texas. After multiple trips to wine country in California and the Old World, she studied with Wine and Spirits Education Trust. Since wine loves cheese, Penny began sharing stories of cheesemakers and mongers she met in her travels (Chef ’s Dish, p. 19). She’s currently honing her caseiculture knowledge at Cheese State University, and you can follow her on Instagram @adventuresofacarryon.
