This cheese sure is new, but its roots are steeped in tradition. St. Em is a lactic-set cheese from tiny “nano-creamery” Spoonwood Cabin Creamery in Vermont — and we’re not joking about the tiny part — Spoonwood is a two-person team working in 1,000 square feet of cheesemaking space. St. Em is soft and delicate, made from Jersey cow milk, and inspired by the silky French icon Saint Marcellin, one of maker Nancy’s favorite cheeses. Currently, the cheese is only available at Formaggio Kitchen in Boston (Spoonwood’s first retail partner), but perhaps not for long.
Nancy developed this cheese during the winter, when no goat milk was available. Nancy wanted to make something from cow milk that was mild, milky, pretty and charming. She certainly accomplished that goal with St. Em! Young, tangy, with notes of fresh cream and butter – there is also a hint of mushroom from the cheese’s remarkably thin and delicate rind.
Photo by Sarah Spira