PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK FERRI | STYLED BY LESLIE ORLANDINI
Of all the cheeses in dairy land, feta stands out as a cook’s ally. With its briny freshness and clean tang, feta is an instant flavor enhancer, packing the merits of both salt and acidity in a single culinary punch. Never mind that it doesn’t melt and ooze; instead this sturdy cheese brings a flavorful backbone to all sorts of dishes. Even celebrated chef and author Yotam Ottolenghi admits in his latest cookbook, Plenty More (Ten Speed Press, Oct. 2014; $21), “Feta . . .is one of the oldest tricks in my book when trying to ‘fix’ a recipe.”
Like any other broad category of cheese, feta comes in a variety of styles and milks. They range from the standard-bearer Greek and Bulgarian sheep’s milk fetas—with their robust tanginess—to more mellow and gently curdy fetas made from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk.
Salt content also varies a great deal, so it’s best to sample and choose your favorites for cooking. For the most versatility, stock a soft-style feta and a dense, chewier version. It keeps well in the fridge, always at the ready to be of service to the cook. Salads are the classic medium for chunky bits of feta, but don’t stop there. As demonstrated in the recipes below, this cheese is no one-trick pony. We’ve harnessed its sharp flavor for meat and chicken dishes, vegetable hand pies, a creamy dip, and even a sweet berry delicacy.
1. Feta, Cumin, Olive, and Chicken Tacos
The big flavors of Greek salad—tomato, cucumber, oregano, olives, and feta—adapt perfectly to the addition of cumin, cooked chicken, and plenty of fresh cilantro in this tangy taco filling.
2. Whipped Feta with Spring Onion and Za’atar
A classic of the Greek meze table, this quick-to-concoct savory dip tastes best if made a day ahead and refrigerated. Za’atar is a Lebanese spice mixture that includes ground thyme, sumac, and sesame seeds. The blend adds a nice counterpoint to the salty taste of feta, but it’s optional.
3. Moroccan Feta Meatballs with Ras El Hanout and Zucchini Noodles
4. Strawberries, Feta, and Walnuts with Fresh Mint
5. Herbed Feta and Cheddar Hand Pies
Elaine Khosrova
Elaine Khorova is the original Editor-in-Chief of culture magazine and the current recipe writer extraordinaire. She resides in the Hudson Valley of New York where she is working on a book about the history of butter.
