Voicings: Perrystead Dairy’s Yoav Perry
The model for Yoav Perry’s urban cheesemaking project was simple: bring excellent milk from the country to the consumers, distributors, and restaurants in the Philadelphia, paying farmers top dollar while saving them the added risk and expense of cheesemaking.
Cows and Carbon: How a Pinch of Seaweed a Day could Keep the Methane Away
Cows enjoying seaweed feed at Straus Dairy Farms Cows produce a ton of methane, a fact that weighs heavy on the dairy industry’s tortured brow. The greenhouse gas is the second largest contributor to climate change after carbon dioxide, and cows can’t help but release a huge percentage of the global output. Farmers have gotten […]
Martha Vineyard’s The Grey Barn and Farm
Dairy cows graze at The Grey Barn and Farm Photographed by Molly Glasgow When Molly and Eric Glasgow bought the 100-acre farm now known as The Grey Barn and Farm in Chilmark, Massachusetts, on the island of Martha’s Vineyard, they knew almost nothing about farming. The couple had been living in London, where Eric was […]
Changing Times for Britain’s Beloved Halloumi
Halloumi, though synonymous with Cyprus, is—depending on which survey you consult— about as popular in the British Isles as its own darling cheddar, and even more so than Stilton.
Cheese for the Culture: We’re Still Here
For my first draft of this column, I started off writing something that I thought would get approved by the editor. I was assertive but was careful to not fall into the “angry Black woman” trope by being too assertive. I told a charming anecdotal story about an incident that happened when I was five. […]
Cheese Styles: Traditional Swiss
In Switzerland, traditional cheesemaking serves many functions. Without the low-intensity, seasonal cow grazing that helps to regenerate and maintain them, these grasslands—hotspots of biodiversity— would begin to disappear.
Cheese Styles: American Cheddar
Before the 20th century advent of processed cheese food known as “American cheese,” cheddar was the national standard.
Cheese Styles: Blue
Centuries ago, blue cheeses were probably all mistakes. Modern cheesemakers prefer consistency and control, so they inoculate the milk or curds with the mold of their choosing.
Cheese Styles: Pecorino
As a class, pecorinos are relatively simple cheeses to make. Many recipes have changed little since Roman times.
Cheese Styles: French Goat
Photographed by Molly McDonough While giant cow’s milk wheels have taken center stage throughout history as the Savoie region’s most iconic cheeses, goat’s milk cheese has always been there, too, ducking the spotlight. Now, Savoyard goat cheese is coming into its own. A growing number of creative producers are turning out the firm and flavor-rich […]
