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French Alpine Fare Meets a Love for Maine Cheese at Alice and Lulu’s


Photography by Nicole Wolf Chef Lex Godin can pinpoint when they fell in love with Maine cheese. It was 2017, and they were working as the executive chef at 45 North, a ski resort restaurant in western Maine, which served Kennebec Cheesery’s Sugarloaf, an aged, Alpine-style goat’s milk cheese. Due to a delivery hiccup, Lex […]

This Rare Pig-Rennet Cheese is Made Exclusively by Women


Photo credit: © Archivio Slow Food The prized cheese from Italy’s Abruzzo region is made exclusively by women I first encountered the unique sheep’s milk cheese Pecorino di Farindola while browsing at the Eataly cheese counter in Florence, Italy. I noticed a sign for a pecorino made with caglio suino (pig rennet), something I’d never […]

In Season: Nuts


Ancient Romans partaking in the festivities of Saturnalia—a raucous mid-December holiday that honored seed-sowing god Saturn— wagered nuts, not gold coins, as they rolled dice fashioned from sheep and goat knucklebones. A good haul of fall nuts, after all, was a good omen for the spring harvest to come. Later in western civilization’s story line, […]

Europe Home of Cheese: Get to Know the Cheeses of Austria


In Austria, cheesemakers work with traditional methods in harmony with and respect for the environment and the animals, to produce natural, organic, GMO-free cheese.

Cheesemaking in Ukraine, Then and Now


Ukraine has a lot to be proud of when it comes to cheese. We already have more than 300 cheesemakers, and this number increases yearly. The annual consumption of cheese has also grown accordingly. Last year it was about 5 kilograms per capita. While Ukrainians are still relatively new to cheesemaking, our skills and productivity […]

A Feta Odyssey in Greece


The flagship national product of Greece, feta’s roots go all the way back to the days of Homer.

Culture Goes to ‘Cheese Camp’


Education, networking, all-you-can-eat cheese, and more: it’s a curd nerd’s paradise at the ACS Conference.

The Collective Culture of Grief


I’m struggling to write this column. Just a week ago there was a mass shooting in Buffalo, and ten people were murdered because they dared to shop at a grocery store while Black. By the time this piece hits your mailbox the news cycle will have moved on, and many of you will have as […]

Voicings: Mary Quicke


Photo by Matt Austin Here in the States, we speak of third-, fourth-, sometimes even fifth-generation farms. In Devon, England, Mary Quicke runs a 14th generation clothbound cheddar operation, and it would not be a stretch to say that her fate was set by Henry VIII falling in love with Anne Boleyn in 1527. When […]

Vegan Cheese is Here to Stay


Vegan cheese is back on the menu and bigger than ever. In 2021, the global vegan cheese market was valued at $2.43 billion, and Silicon Valley is pouring more money into alt milks every year.

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